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Bangkok - Thailand

To put it simply, Bangkok can seem like a nightmare to those unfamiliar with the city. The sprawling expressways and overpasses, huge new Skytrain and crowded streets full of vendors give the place a distinct Blade Runneresque feel. Causing even further confusion is the lack of a true "centre" to the city, with various districts scattered throughout town. On the positive side, the Skytrain has made it much easier to get around, and taxis, tuk-tuks, buses and motorcycle taxis are plentiful. Get your bearings by reading the following guide and it will not take long for you to be seduced by the glorious chaos and charm of the "City of Angels."

The most heavily visited area, at least during the day, is Ko Rattanakosin (Rattanakosin Island), Bangkok's old city on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River. Here you will find fantastic examples of historical architecture such as the glittering Grand Palace (The), Wat Phra Keo, Wat Pho, Wat Mahathat, the Golden Mount and Wat Suthat. The city's founding pillar, Lak Mueang, is also located in this district, as are the National Museum, National theatre and National Gallery. If you are keen on seeing something completely out of the ordinary, pop across the river to the Museum of the Department of Forensic Medicine. Sanam Luang is about the only green spot on the "island," which is not really an island but would have seemed like one in the old days when many of the canals linking the area to the river had not yet been filled in.

Bangkok was once referred to as "The Venice of The East," but today the klongs, or canals, are concentrated in Thonburi, an area lying to the west of the Chao Phraya River. You can take a klong tour, and most will stop at Wat Arun and the museum of the Royal Barges. Buses heading south from Bangkok leave from Sai Tai bus terminal, located here.

Backpackers head for the Banglampoo and Thewet districts. Near the Democracy Monument on Khao San Road there is some good trinket shopping to be done. This strip is lined with guest houses and cheap restaurants, none of which stand out for their ambiance or cuisine. A mere stone's throw away along Phra Arthit Road, some great restaurants and bars come to life at night. Following the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya, you will come to an area frequented by students from nearby Thammasat and Silpakorn universities, with a laid-back, cosmopolitan feel.

The Dusit district offers plenty of tourist attractions. Vimanmek Palace, Wat Benchamabophit (The Marble Temple), Suan Pakkard Palace and Dusit Zoo are all found here. There is not much in the way of hotels or restaurants, but a small artsy area popular with local students has sprung up on Rachawithee Soi 34.

Northern Bangkok's touristic highlight is Chatuchak Weekend Market, best reached by catching the Skytrain. Mor Chit bus terminal is located near the same stop-handy to know if you want to catch an interprovincial bus heading north or northeast.

Heading back south, the area around the Victory Monument features a variety of bars, including Saxophone Pub and Restaurant. This is also a major transport hub, with the Skytrain and plenty of buses passing through.

Young Thais and keen shoppers head for the area around Siam Square, a shoppers' paradise-unless you are a tall Western woman looking for off-the-rack clothes or shoes. If this is the case, you will find plenty in malls such as Siam centre and Siam Discovery centre, centrepoint (the most popular teenage hangout), Mah Boon Krong and the World Trade centre. A walk away from the latter stands Panthip Plaza, also known as the heaven for computer geeks, and possibly the best place to get deals on computers in Southeast Asia. The non-shopper can retreat to the sanctuary of Jim Thompson's House and Museum. There is a clustre of hotels in this area, and popular restaurants such as the Hard Rock Café are also found here.

Heading east along Ploenchit Road and Sukhumvit Road, you can experience a shopping extravaganza at both the street stalls which spring up at the beginning of Sukhumvit and stretch to Soi Asoke and at department stores such as Central Chidlom and Emporium. The huge array of dining options along this stretch include Auberge Dab, Baan Khanita, Lemon Grass, Cabbages and Condoms and Rossini's. The Ekamai, the eastern bus terminal, is located on Soi Ekamai (63). Sukhumvit Road also features a large selection of hotels, including the Bangkok JW Marriott, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit and the Westin Grande Sukhumvit (formerly Grand Pacific).

The Sathorn/Silom area forms the core of Bangkok's Central Business District, although the Stock Exchange of Thailand is located some distance away on Ratchadaphisek Road. The area encompasses a number of embassies and hotels, such as the Banyan Tree, Sukhothai and Dusit Thani. Silom Road offers more shopping opportunities, including the Patpong Night Market. Sri Maha Uma Devi temple is also located in this district. Restaurants abound, particularly around Convent Road. Head for nearby Lumpini Park for a break in a rare patch of green.

If you head west along Sathorn or Silom Road, you will come to Charoen Krung ("New") Road and back to the Chao Phraya River. A tram used to run along this road, but these days hardly anything does-the traffic is so thick! This is another popular hotel area, with such luxurious hotels as The Oriental, The Peninsula, the Shangri-La, the Royal Orchid Sheraton and the Marriott Spa Resort all overlooking the river. Take a sunset cruise or dine in one of the many restaurants along the majestic river, such as Yok Yor Marina and Restaurant. The River City Shopping Complex sells a huge array of antiques and is worth browsing through.

North along the river lie hectic Chinatown and Pahurat, an Indian district. Here you will find Wat Traimit, but the area is best known for its shopping. Yaowarat Road has loads of gold shops, while Sampeng Lane has everything from hair accessories to shoes, all at bargain basement prices. Farther north you will come to Pak Klong Talat with its colourful fresh flowers.

There are also a number of attractions to be found in the outlying areas of Bangkok and adjacent provinces, including King Rama IX Royal Park, Nonthaburi, the Ancient City, Damnoen Saduak Floating Market and Ayutthaya, a trip to which usually incorporates a visit to Bang Pa-In Summer Palace.
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