City information

Madrid is, beyond a shadow of a doubt, one of the world's best cities for having fun. Madrileños don't tend to go out on the town until after midnight and rarely arrive at clubs before 3a. However, even if your entertainment tastes are more sedate, you won't be disappointed (unless you were planning on having dinner at half past six!).

The city is brimming with art galleries of every taste. For example, Galería Capa Esculturas specializes in sculpture, presenting the hottest new artists. Galería Estiarte shows promising new graphic artists, and for international flavour, Galería del Cisne features contemporary Catalan artists. The swish Salamanca district and Alonso Martínez also contain a number of galleries.

The cinemas are concentrated along the Gran Vía east of the Plaza de España. Movies tend to be dubbed into Spanish so if you want to see them in the original language, make sure it specifies V.O. (versión original) in the listing.

Lots of bars and clubs put on a traditional tablao where you can watch flamenco dancing in its different forms. Mainstream venues like the Teatro de la Zarzuela and the Centro Cultural de la Villa (under the waterfall in the centre of the Plaza de Colón) host national and international companies performing ballet and contemporary dance.

There are museums devoted to every subject from famous painters to famous motorcyclists. The three most important collections of art in Spain are all within walking distance of each other in what's known as Madrid's "Golden Triangle." The Museo del Prado is the most famous and exhibits El Greco, Velázquez and Goya. The Thyssen Bornemizsa shows Van Dyck, Van Gogh, Dégas, Dalí, Carpaccio and Kandinsky. The Centro de Arte Reina Sofía specializes in contemporary Spanish art, such as Picasso's Guernica and work by Miró and Dalí. You're sure to find something of interest among the many smaller, quirkier museums such as the Museo de los Bomberos (Firemen's Museum.

As for music, jazz aficionados can choose from a number of clubs in the Huertas district including the local favourite, Populart.

Although flamenco comes from the south of Spain, Madrid attracts many top acts. Try Casa Patas or Candela, or just wander through the gates of the Plaza Mayor until you hear something you like coming from within (but be prepared to pay heftily for it).

Rock/Indie music can be heard in small places like Suristán, which has been operating for several years and regularly has alternative and world-beat concerts. Or you can go to larger venues like La Riviera, which hosts many major international superstars.

The lovely Teatro de la Zarzuela and the Teatro Real are good places to hear classical music and opera.

There are dozens of "mainstream" theatres, often showing works by famous Spanish dramatists, many of whom have metro stops named after them (Quevedo, Tirso de Molina). The Nuevo Apolo, the Abadía and the Comedia are just a few. Or for way-out Spanish fringe try Sala Cuarta Pared or Sala El Canto de la Cabra. Be sure to check out Madrid's English-language what's-on guide for a listing of English productions.

Nightclubs are everywhere. Some are cheap, while others are outrageously expensive. You can find every type of music including techno, salsa, merengue, house, hip-hop, acid, disco and anything else you can think of. Many don't open until midnight and only fill up at 3a. The Chueca district has mainly gay clubs. The Malasaña district offers plenty of rock, grunge, indie and alternative clubs, and the Huertas district is the place for latin and jazz clubs. Your first drink is usually included if you pay a cover charge. Beware of the expensive drink prices in some of these clubs. Madrileños love their nightlife, and they're willing to pay for it!

By district: La Castellana is best in summertime when the tree-lined avenues are crowded with outdoor terrazas (pavement cafés) that remain busy until very late with trendy, well-dressed young professionals. Some of Madrid's oldest literary cafés like the Café Gijón are here, and you can still see tertulias (discussion groups) taking place today.

Huertas is central to just about everything and is an ideal area for a night out without having to travel far. The street itself and surrounding ones (as well as lively Plaza de Santa Ana) are crowded with tapas bars, cafés (many with live music), restaurants and late night spots. The jazz favourite, Populart, is located in this area. Las Bravas is one of the best places in the world for patatas bravas (fried chunks of potatoes in a delicious, spicy, secret-recipe sauce), a speciality that no one outside Madrid seems to do properly. Naturbier is a great micro-brewery not to be missed.

Chueca is one of Madrid's most cosmopolitan areas, and also its gay centre. There are numerous clubs, discos and even gay bookstores, cafés and B&B's! Black & White is one of the best-known gay discos, and Acuarela is a charming café. Chueca used to be quite a rough area; and though it has become fairly gentrified, it is still not uncommon to see Madrid's underbelly here, so it's best to keep an eye out.

Malasaña is full of bars and clubs and tends to attract the younger folk. It is easy to party all night in any of the places around the Plaza del dos de Mayo. Although there is a wide range of music to choose from, the majority tends to be rock, grunge and indie. There are also many restaurants in the area.